How to Widen Doorways for Wheelchair Access: A Retrofit Guide

I’ve been in thousands of homes over the past 25 years, and I can tell you the number one thing that unexpectedly traps people in their own houses: a standard 28-inch interior door. It’s the silent barrier that nobody thinks about until a walker, and then a wheelchair, becomes part of the family. Suddenly, the bathroom is off-limits. The bedroom feels like a cage. It’s a frustrating and surprisingly common problem, but believe me, it’s one we can absolutely solve.

The Bottom Line, Up Front

Don't have time for the full blueprint? Here’s the rundown of what you really need to know about creating accessible doorways.

✓ The Magic Number is 32 Inches: For straight-on wheelchair access, you need a bare minimum of 32 inches of clear width. That’s the actual open space, not the width of the door slab itself. For comfortable access, especially if you need to turn, 36 inches is the gold standard we always shoot for.

✓ Start with the Hinges: The cheapest, fastest fix is installing offset or "swing-clear" hinges. For under $50 and about 20 minutes of your time, you can gain a precious 1.5 to 2 inches of space. In my experience, this simple swap is often enough to solve the problem.

✓ Structural Changes Require a Pro: If hinges aren't enough, you're looking at cutting into the wall. This isn't a simple DIY weekend project. It almost always involves re-framing, drywall, and sometimes electrical work. You've got to know when to call in a qualified contractor.

✓ Plan for More Than Just Width: Don't forget about thresholds. A half-inch lip at the bottom of a doorway can feel like climbing a mountain to someone in a wheelchair or with a walker. We need to address those, too.

Why a Few Inches Can Change Everything

A narrow doorway isn't just an inconvenience; it’s a thief of independence and a serious safety hazard. I’ve seen scraped knuckles, gouged drywall, and beautifully finished door frames that are just chewed to pieces from people trying to force a wheelchair through a tight opening.

Worse, I've worked with families where a parent has stopped using their own bathroom because it’s just too difficult to get into. This leads to hygiene issues and a profound loss of dignity. Caregivers pay the price, too. The constant twisting, lifting, and awkward transfers required to navigate a tight space lead to back injuries and burnout. This isn't just about making a home modification for wheelchair access; it’s about preserving the health, safety, and quality of life for everyone involved. The goal is to make the home work for the person, not the other way around.

Technical Solutions: From Simple Swaps to Major Surgery

When it comes to doorway widening, we have a few tools in our belt, ranging from a simple screwdriver to a reciprocating saw. Let's break down the options from easiest to most complex.

Option 1: The Quick Win - Offset Hinges

This is always our first move. An offset hinge, also called a swing-clear or expandable hinge, is shaped like a little Z. This design allows the door to swing completely clear of the doorway opening when it's opened 90 degrees. A standard hinge, by contrast, leaves the thickness of the door itself sitting inside the frame, eating up about 1.5 to 2 inches of that precious space.

• Pros: Inexpensive (you can find a set of two from brands like Stanley or National Hardware for $20-$40), incredibly fast to install (it uses the same screw holes as your old hinges), and completely reversible if you move.
• Cons: It only provides a small amount of extra space. It might not be enough if your doorway is exceptionally narrow (like an old 24-inch closet door).
• Best For: Turning a 30-inch door (which typically has 28" of clear space) into a full 30-inch clear space. This is often just enough for a narrow transport chair.

Option 2: The Moderate Fix - Removing Trim and Shifting the Jamb

If the hinges don’t quite cut it, our next step is a bit more involved but still avoids major structural changes. This involves carefully prying off the door trim (the molding) on both sides, cutting the nails holding the door jamb in place, and physically shifting the whole frame over an inch or so. Sometimes, we can get away with just planing down the existing jamb for a little extra room.

• Pros: Can gain you up to an inch of space without touching the wall's structural framing. It’s a mid-range cost solution.
• Cons: Requires real carpentry skills, repainting, and potentially new, narrower trim. It's a fussy, detailed job to make it look like it was never touched.
• Best For: Situations where you need just one more inch than offset hinges can provide, and you've confirmed the wall isn't load-bearing.

Option 3: The Full Retrofit - Re-framing the Doorway

Okay, this is the most comprehensive solution, but it guarantees you'll get the width you need. It involves removing the door, the jamb, the trim, and a section of drywall around the opening. We then cut back the king and jack studs and install a new, wider header to support the load from above. After that, it's all new drywall, taping, mudding, sanding, priming, and painting.

Safety Note: Let me be clear. This is NOT a DIY job unless you are an experienced carpenter. If the wall is load-bearing (meaning, it's holding up the roof or the floor above), cutting into it without proper temporary support can be catastrophic. Always consult a structural engineer or a licensed contractor. They'll also know how to spot and safely move any electrical wiring or plumbing that's inevitably hiding in that wall.

• Pros: You can achieve any width you need, and we typically aim for a 36-inch ADA-compliant doorway. This is the most permanent and effective solution for long-term aging in place.
• Cons: It's expensive and disruptive (think dust and noise for a few days). It also almost always requires a professional and may need a permit from your local building department.
• Best For: Creating a truly accessible home for the long haul. This is our go-to solution for main entrances, master bedrooms, and primary bathrooms.

Comparison of Doorway Widening Methods

Cost Analysis: What's This Going to Set Me Back?

Let's talk dollars and cents. Prices can vary a lot based on where you live and the complexity of the job, but here's a realistic breakdown for a single interior doorway.

Prices are estimates and do not include potential costs for permits, electrical work, or moving plumbing.

Installation: The DIY Guide for Hinges, and When to Call for Backup

For the brave and handy folks out there, here's how you can tackle the offset hinge installation yourself. It's surprisingly easy.

DIY: Installing Offset Hinges

Tools Needed: A cordless drill/driver, a Phillips head bit, and a few books or shims.

1. Support the Door: Open the door to 90 degrees and slide some books or wood shims under the far corner to hold its weight. You don't want it crashing down when you remove the hinges.
2. Remove One Hinge at a Time: Start with the top hinge. Unscrew it from the door jamb first, then from the door itself. Trust me, it's much easier this way.
3. Install the New Hinge: Line up your new offset hinge. The screw holes should match perfectly. Screw it into the door first, then into the jamb. Get it snug, but don't overtighten.
4. Repeat: Now move to the bottom hinge (and the middle one, if you have it) and repeat the process. By doing one at a time, the door stays perfectly aligned.
5. Test It: Remove the shims and gently swing the door. It should open and close smoothly, swinging wide and clear of the frame. You've just bought yourself two extra inches of freedom.

When to Call a Professional

For anything beyond hinges, we strongly recommend hiring a qualified contractor, preferably one who specializes in home modifications. Here's why:

• Load-Bearing Walls: They can identify a structural wall in about ten seconds and know how to properly support the load while they work. This prevents your ceiling from sagging or worse.
• Hidden Surprises: They know how to check for electrical wires, plumbing pipes, and HVAC ducts inside the wall before they start cutting. I once saw a DIY job where someone cut right through a hot water line. It was an expensive, wet mistake.
• The Right Tools and a Clean Finish: They have the tools and experience to make the finished product look like it was always there—no sloppy drywall patches or crooked trim. It's the difference between a professional job and a "weekend warrior" special.

Related: The Complete Guide to Bathroom Grab Bar Placement

Frequently Asked Questions

I get these questions all the time from families. Let's clear them up.

What is the absolute minimum doorway width for a wheelchair?

The ADA (Americans with Disabilities Act) standard for new construction requires a minimum clear opening of 32 inches with the door open 90 degrees. This is the magic number we always aim for. A standard wheelchair is about 24-27 inches wide, but you need extra space for your hands on the wheels. 32 inches is tight but manageable. 36 inches is what we'd call comfortable.

Do I need a building permit to widen a doorway?

It really depends on your local municipality and the scope of work. If you're just swapping hinges, definitely not. If you are doing any structural alteration like cutting studs and installing a new header—especially on a load-bearing wall—you will almost certainly need a permit. A good contractor will handle the whole permitting process for you.

What about pocket doors or barn doors?

These are fantastic options for accessible doorways! A pocket door slides into the wall, and a barn door slides alongside it. This means neither door takes up any floor space or clear width in the opening itself. They are a great solution for tight spaces like bathrooms or hallways where a swinging door would be a major obstacle. The installation is more involved than a standard door, but the payoff in accessibility is huge.

How long does a professional doorway widening project take?

Swapping hinges is a one-hour job, max. A full re-frame is more disruptive, so you should plan for 2-4 days. Day 1 is typically demolition and framing. Day 2 is drywall and the first coat of mud (that's the joint compound). Day 3 involves more sanding and finishing coats. And Day 4 is for priming, painting, and hanging the door.

Don't let a narrow doorway dictate how you or your loved ones live. It’s a solvable problem. Your first step is simple: grab a tape measure. Measure the clear width of your most critical doorways—the main bathroom, the master bedroom, the entrance from the garage. Knowing your numbers is the first step toward reclaiming that space. If you're feeling stuck, that's what we're here for. Let's make that home safe for the years to come.

Related: How to Choose the Right Wheelchair for Your Home